I first tried cherry and maple. WATCO® Danish Oil is a unique blend of penetrating oil and varnish that hardens in the wood, not on the wood. On the body I'd use red aniline dye to get a red tinge then finish off with uncut Tru Oil and buffed for a semi-gloss finish. From my experience is that you can use Danish oil over oil stains and dies. Danish Oil will darken the wood slightly and can be combined with oil-based pigments to create wood stains. Danish Oil Finish is commonly used by woodworking professionals for application to bare wood or overtop an already-stained piece. WATCO® Danish Oil penetrates deep into wood pores to protect from within and to enhance the natural look and feel of the wood. You'll have much better results with maple, cherry, or birch, which have tighter grains. As a wood finish, linseed oil often gets compared to danish oil and tung oil. I also always blow the eyes of the burls out with some compressed air as I'm wiping the applied finish. As discussed above, linseed oil comes in different varieties. I had a roasted maple strat neck finished in one coat of Danish oil, front and back, but I have since sanded down the back and re-finished it in TRU OIL, as I prefer the feel and slightly lighter color of TO compared to DO. The plan is to use Watco Danish Oil Finish on the woods. Richard is spot on a pic would really help.I have had good results with maple burl using multiple coats of polymerized Tung oil and then using the Beall buffing system after the finish has cured. I'd use a rosewood fretboard (lemon oil only), on the neck, one coat of medium walnut Watco Danish oil for tint, then thinned Tru Oil buffed to a smooth satin finish. Similarly to mineral oil, the term danish oil can apply to many different substances. It blended the color well and looked great going on but is still sticky 24 hours later. Danish oil can be used under other finishes and it can also act as its own finish. If the OP doesn’t want blotching, he needs to treat the wood before. Linseed Oil vs Danish Oil vs Tung Oil. Raw, polymerized, and boiled linseed oil are all derived from the flaxseed plant, but have been processed differently and to varying degrees. If you look carefully, the product is often actually labeled as “Danish Oil Finish” , which of course implies that it isn’t simply a pure oil. I have used Watco Danish Oil on cherry, oak, maple and birch plywood with absolutely no delamination. The first few coats just rub straight on as the wood soaks it up, then I use 400 grit sandpaper to rub it in, move on to 600 and finally 800. Danish Oil. The term “Danish Oil” is basically a catch all term for any oil-based wood finish. You can finish by applying several coats of any finish, but oil finishes won’t produce enough shine or depth to maximize the contrast you’re trying to achieve. So I need to try to remove the finish between frets so I can apply TRU OIL on the fretboard as well. Beware: Some finishes with "tung oil" in their name contain little or no real tung oil as an ingredient. The only delamination problems I have had with ply were a couple of times with water-based latex paints for … Danish oil is typically wiped on, allowed to soak in to the wood for a while and then excess remaining on the surface is wiped off. Oil/varnish mixes, such as Danish oil, enhance grain while laying down a thin film. The can reads, both: “Watco Danish Oil Finish is a unique blend of penetrating oil & varnish that stains, seals & protects in one easy step.” and In fact, the ambiguity with danish oil is even more severe. An oil such as tung oil or boiled linseed oil will also reveal and add punch to figure that may have been difficult to see in the raw board. Tried and true oil, is a good choice for a project you want food safe. It creates the rich, warm glow of a traditional hand-rubbed finish. It adds color, shine and a hard layer of protection. Similar but different problem. How To Use Danish Oil On Maple + How To Use Danish Oil On Maple 09 Dec 2020 Check out our mexican shadowbox selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. I started finishing the body with a clear Danish Oil (Watco) to get some color, planning to coat it with wax or poly after. The term “Danish Oil” used today is a general term for a type of wood finish. While oil finishes do a wonderful job at highlighting the figure in curly maple, they also add a gentle amber color. How To Make A Picture On A Piece Of Wood. It's designed to be an in-the-wood finish that leaves the look and feel of the grain rather than a smooth finish like you get with a varnish, shellac or lacquer. Danish Oil. Watco Danish Oil is intended as a complete finish. More Options Available. Linseed oil, Boiled Linseed Oil, Tru-Oil (which is nothing more than boiled linseed oil), Minwax's "Tung Oil Finish" and the various Watco Danish Oil finishes are all essentially the same. Well, the oil component is once again typically linseed oil and/or tung oil, which is mixed with varnish, mineral spirits, and synthetic resins to make it durable and easy to work with. I decided to run some tests using the Watco natural color on various hardwoods. Watco Danish oil from a local hardware store works fine, it’s a thinner oil so we usually put on at least one more coat to help build the finish on the wood. Danish Oil on maple table This customer used Danish Oil on this maple table slab to bring out wood grains while slightly darkening the wood to achieve a rustic, yet modern look. Top Rated Watco 1 pt. Another commonly used finishing technique on maple is to apply tung oil or linseed oil after the final sanding. From what I read, danish oil is just BLO with some thinner and varnish mixed in in varying amounts. 5. These oils tend to bring out the curly or tiger looks of the maple. The information in this blog post applies to all oil finishes. Both penetrate the entire fretboard and protect very well. Danish oil is a penetrating wood finish that is related to both Tung oil and polymerized linseed oil. Mineral oil will work fine but will leave the wood looking dull. Danish oil is great for finishing necks, I tend to put on about 5-6 coats. Watco Danish Oil and tung oil are two types of wood-finishing oil with distinctly different properties. It's going to be certain ones that you can't do it over a gel stain, stain with a clear coat, or water base won't work. Conditioner, even a coat of Shellac, could make Maple wood yellow/Amber. Danish oil should contain a high percentage of natural oil that is classified as a drying oil. Watco Danish oil is a brand of wood finish product also referred to as an oil/varnish blend, because it contains both penetrating oil and varnish. The build seems way to slow for a product that contains that much resin, but I'm not a chemist. You can buy Danish oil without a tint added to it (“Natural”) or in several wood stain colors. As a rule i would say danish oil does not stay tacky. I used Danish oil to touch up a kitchen cabinet that had lots of scratches and wear. Dark Walnut 350 VOC Danish Oil (4-Pack) Model# 265501 $ 35 92 /case $ 35 92 /case Free delivery with $45 order. After about 15 coats of tinted oil and more gentle block sanding the flats of the headstock with slurry of oil for glassy smooth surface. Danish oil, which is yet another natural finish, is actually a type of Tung oil. For a more durable finish, top-coat over the shellac with a clear lacquer or polyurethane. Danish oil simply wipes on, and its varnish component forms a film on the wood surface for better protection. It often a top choice of finishes because it can be used on just about all types of wood surfaces. Incidentally, if you want to save some money you can buy any brand of linseed oil instead of the more expensive Danish oil. ... 1½” maple if I had to guess. The cherry and birch sometimes have darker blotches but no other problems. A drying oil such as boiled linseed oil or a blend of oil and varnish (“Danish Oil”) can be made to look shinier and nicer with several coats. Even applying dyes is the same. Formby Tung Oil finish maybe, Watco Danish Oil, no way. A polymerizing oil soaks into the wood and forms a relatively hard finish. How To Use Danish Oil On Maple eBay. Using Tung oil on maple is like staining. – Mikeber Nov 21 '17 at 22:36. Compare. Mineral oils won't do that. The 100% natural (pure boiled linseed oil and varnish resin) pro varnish oil is very thick and smooth as motor oil but is very slow drying compared to danish oil and similar commercial oil finishes that have metallic drying agents and thinners in their blend. but if its being applied to thickly, or if its applied to a particulalry oily piece of wood (cocobolo/bocote levels of oilyness) or if there was alreayd some kind of waxyfinish on the wood i would not be surprised if it had issues curing properly. Follow the oil with a coat or two of shellac. I'm using a spalted maple top on basswood, and I have a maple neck with a rosewood fingerboard. And forms a relatively hard finish a wonderful job at highlighting the figure in curly maple, aspen and. Similarly to mineral oil will work fine but will leave the wood product contains. Color well and looked great going on but is still sticky 24 hours later for finishing,! 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